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Skip to Steps 7 & 8 if you only need to optimize your image sizes.
Being an artist in the 21st century comes with an entire graphic design hat that can be a little overwhelming. Art submissions ask for specific sizes but school usually doesn't cover photography basics... or copyright basics. Plus, what's this about AI and Art theft? Wait - what do you mean my webpages are so slow it's like dial up internet is back in fashion?!
In this tutorial, we will cover:
your legal artist copyright protections and things you can do to combat art theft,
how to take photos of your artwork and edit them using Photopea,
how to optimize your image sizes for your site,
how to make a favicon, and
what AI art means for you.
1. Copyright, Theft, Fan Art
This is not legal advice, this is fellow artist advice. We're trying to give you the best guidance we can on a topic that's often misunderstood. But, know I am no lawyer!
When you create something, you automatically have copyright protections under the law over the work.
This means you control the original, distribution of copies (reproduction rights), and how your works are used (moral rights). The term for your copyright varies by country - in Canada, it is your lifetime +70 years. While legally you have these protections, practically most aren't able to protect their work due to the legal expenses involved beyond telling someone to stop using their work. A middle ground strategy to make it easier to enforce your copyright is to register your copyright with your country's copyright office (ex. US copyright office).
Unfortunately as an artist operating in the 21st century, it's inevitable that someone will steal your art in some regard. What's important is that they aren't able to steal your art in a way that's profitable and easy. Given how few resources artists have access to for protecting their IP (intellectual property), it's best to only pursue theft cases when someone's profiting and you're not. Even then, it could become a game of whack-a-mole.
All fan art is illegal...
If you make an artwork using someone else's photograph or intellectual property (IP) like fan art or art of celebrities, be aware you do not have copyright protections. You, by using their IP, are violating their copyright unless you have permission from the copyright holder to make work of the owner's IP. Existing photographs are owned by the photographers who took them. So, celebrity portraits are violations of copyright law (see violation examples). The exception is if a work is in the public domain (usually expired copyright period, ex. Shakespeare, Steamboat Mickey), then you can make a derivative work from that.
The written law can be interpreted many ways despite how iron clad it may appear. As such, the court's enforcement of the law is drawn from "precedent": influential court cases that ultimately define the way in which the law is actually applied. So, if someone is sued for copying a photographed portrait in pencil because it isn't "transformative" enough to become a "derivative work", you can assume that this interpretation would likely apply to your work too.
People often claim that their work falls under "Fair Use" as derivative works or parody. However, these categories require that your version does not resemble the original. So, Spaceballs would be an actual, lawful parody of Star Wars, but even this case is a fine line (see wins examples).
...illegal, but tolerated.
It's usually only worth prosecuting someone over IP violations if
(1) the offender is making a great deal of money or
(2) the work damages the brand of the original.
If you choose to sell fan art, the rule of thumb is to be small enough that it's not worth the money to come after you for copyright violations. Companies are known to do "take downs sweeps" of an IP every once and awhile.
IP owners sometimes turn a blind eye to violations if
(1) it would tarnish the brand's reputation to enforce the copyright or
(2) it's actually legally dubious to prosecute (ex. Alan Pan and Mythbusters' trademark).
If you use someone else's work, you make a calculated risk. Ultimately, the choice is yours. It's best to avoid the headache and use your own IP and photographs whenever possible.
Examples of Copyright Violations
2011: Obama "Hope" Poster
Artist Shepard Fairey and The Associated Press went to court because it was not clear if the Artist's work was transformative enough of the original to be considered a "derivative work". Additionally, the artist earned $400 000 from the sale of art posters of the work in question. While the matter settled out of court, this work was in question and put the artist through quite the legal headache.2023: Andy Warhol's 1984 "Prince" Series
A recent, high profile case of Warhol's estate versus photographer Lynn Goldsmith. The Supreme Court of the United States ruled that Warhol's prints were not considered "derivative works". The prints are copied from Goldsmith's photographs. Despite Warhol being dead and his fame, the estates of passed artists continue to hold copyrights over the works. Someone being dead is not enough to use their work without risk.1982: Snow's Canadian Geese in the Eaton's Center
The Eaton's shopping center in Toronto put little Christmas bows on the geese sculpture suspended from the ceiling in flight. Canada's Ontario Court of High Justice ruled that the bows violated the artist's (Michael Snow) moral copyright as the ribbons offended the integrity of, and distorted, his work as well as the author's reputation. Yes, cute actions can have striking consequences.
Examples of Copyright Wins
Here's a few famous copyright wins.
1987: Spaceballs and Star Wars
Spaceballs is an example of a successful parody protected by copyright law. While its status was not challenged by George Lucas as he approved of the movie, George did block the sale of Spaceballs merchandise. Spaceballs evokes Star Wars but is clearly not Star Wars - this is what bar for parody looks like.2023: Dungeons and Dragons' Open Gaming License 1.0
One of the only IPs you can legally sell creations under their name is Wizards of the Coast's Dungeons and Dragons. You do not need the IP owner's permission to make D&D content and sell it for profit - this imaginative process is a core part of D&D's appeal. A new copyright license (OGL 1.1) was leaked that included a slew of royalty fees to the IP owners. Wizards, by seeking profit over the core appeal of their product, brought the community together in a collective uproar. Many people threatened to stop using D&D and move to similar game systems. Wizards ultimately didn't apply the proposed 1.1 OGL.2023: Allen Pan, Mythbusters' Trademark, and CNN
Allen Pan successfully registered the expired "Mythbusters" trademark from Turner Broadcasting Systems Inc. and was legally selling Mythbusters related merchandise as an independent Youtuber. He did not have legal issues selling Mythbusters branded merchandise. However, Pan made some CNN parody shirts, a trademark he does not own. Turner Broadcasting threatened legal action but proposed a deal to drop the legal action. Pan would abandon the Mythbusters trademark and stop selling and destroy his parody CNN shirts. This case would bankrupt Pan to fight regardless of whether or not Pan was right about his work actually falling under fair use. It's a win for getting an expired trademark and legally selling things under it, but a cautionary tale of the power corporations hold in negotiations. Independent creators are just too small to defend themselves.
2. Protecting Against Theft & AI
A common way to make money off stolen art is to sell items printed with your art on it. For example, Print on Demand services are notorious for stolen art (Redbubble, Temu, Etsy). If you buy something and the printing quality is not razor sharp, there's a good chance it was stolen. To discourage theft, we recommend:
Post Low Quality Images
Post low-quality images of your work online. Never post high quality, printable versions.Anti-AI: Glaze & Nightshade
Use protections against AI art scrapers by using Glaze and Nightshade on your artworks. (See Step 10).Limited Sharing to Responsible Platforms
Post to platforms that do not take your copyright in their Terms of Service when you use their platforms (ex. Cara). Or, post low quality, anti-AI images to platforms that will take away your copyright over your images in their Terms of Service (ex. Facebook, Youtube, Google, Tiktok, Instagram).Watermarks
Put hidden watermarks to show your ownership. We advise against large watermarks as they can be easily removed using Photoshop. Subtle ones that go unnoticed can end up on stolen goods and help you prove the art is indeed yours.
Our guide will focus on (1) Low Quality Images as this is an essential skill for your artist toolkit regardless of theft and is necessary for fast loading speeds on your Google Site.
3. How to Take Photos of Artwork
Photography is a necessary skill for sharing / marketing your artwork. The better your original photo, the easier your editing process will be. While "cleaning up in post" is possible, it can take a lot of work to clean up 'salvageable' photos (and you might not have time to learn how to do graphic design). Here's some tips to make your photos look fantastic and the editor inside you happy.
Tips for Photographing Your Artwork
Use a high quality cellphone (minimum) OR DSLR camera (best).
Soft, even, white light / overcast lighting conditions (no glare),
Neutral background (white preferred).
No Camera Blur
Artwork parallel to camera frame (no diagonals)
Crop in closely to camera frame with a small amount of buffer space around the artwork.
Shoot in .RAW file format if possible (do .RAW + .JPEG for computer previews).
100 to 400 ISO if possible (reduce grain).
Editing can be done on your phone or in a specialized program. We're going to cover Photopea next because it's a free image editing program online with similar functions to Photoshop.
1. High Quality Device
There is no replacement for a good camera at a certain point. If you just need to post online, chances are a cellphone photo will suffice. If you are printing reproductions of your work, use a DSLR.
DSLR cameras simply have more ability to pick up on details, colours, and other aspects. But cellphone cameras in the right light conditions have come a long way.
Cheap / Free DSLR Options:
Friends / Family
High School / University / College
Local Library
Camera / Video Rental Store
Artist Run Center / Community Gallery
2. Soft, Even, White Lighting
White light will allow for the most "neutral" looking photo of your artwork. When adjusting the light and colour of your images, neutral light is more predictable and cooperative to work with. You can use a lighting setup indoors or wait for an overcast cloudy day with good light.
Warm light tinges your work with orange / warm hues. Cool light tinges your work with blue / cool hues. If you have two different kinds of light in the room, you will be able to see the differences in colour on each side of the artwork in the photograph.
3. Neutral Background
Ideally, your artwork should be on a white background. Practically, most of us don't live in galleries. A neutral background without pattern or bright colours will remove the chance of photographing defects alongside your artwork (ex. random bright reflective light, improper lens focus).
If you have 2D work, you can always crop slightly inside the artwork's frame to remove issues in the background. For 3D work, it is essential that you use a neutral background whenever possible.
4. No Camera Blur
We have shaky hands - it happens. But photos with blur can be tricky to edit. Consider using bright light or a tripod to reduce shake issues.
After you take a photo, zoom in closely to see if there's any blur. If there is, try to take the photo again.
If you're using manual DSLR settings, note that a lower ISO reduces the grain seen on an image but makes shooting in low light conditions more prone to blur. Prioritize a higher ISO to remove shake issues when photographing your artwork or use a remote and 2 second timer to avoid blur.
5. Artwork Parallel to Frame
For 2D work, there will always be some fish eye effect (the rounding of an image from the shape of the lens) when taking photos, but try to make sure that your artwork's edges are parallel to each edge of the camera. Then, when editing, crop the artwork to just inside the frame. The fish eye on the surface of the artwork is usually not noticeable to the human eye, it's the rounded rectangle that gives it away.
Crooked photos can be corrected in post, but editing an image with a partial rotation usually blurs the image slightly. We want the most crisp photo possible, so keep your photos straight!
6. Minimal White Space
You want some white space around your artwork, but not so much that your work is a tiny speck in the center of the frame. We recommend an maximum and approximate visual border of 1 to 1.5" (2 to 2.5cm) around the closest sides to the frame.
7. Shoot in .RAW not .JPEG
.RAW and .JPEG are file types. Most cameras only shoot in .JPEG, but DSLRs and some high quality cellphone cameras have the option to shoot in .RAW in their settings.
.RAW files have more information contained in the image, especially for dark areas of images. You can revive the darkest of photographs in .RAW to many mid tones, but not with .JPEG photographs. So, for higher quality photographs, shoot in .RAW.
8. 100 - 400 ISO (Ideal)
ISO refers to the 'grain' of an image.
This is optional based on your level of photography skills. If you use the Auto setting of your DSLR and it's over this number, don't fret. So long as the grain isn't distracting on your image, you will be fine.
ISO, Shutter Speed, and Exposure Time are the three factors you balance when taking photos in manual mode. A higher ISO gives a grainier image, but makes it easier for the camera to capture light. We don't want the grain to be distracting on our images, so we want the lowest ISO possible considering our camera shooting conditions.
4. What is Photopea?
To resize our images, we need a software program. The most commonly used image software is Adobe Suite (ex. Photoshop, Lightroom). Our tutorials will feature Photopea, a free, similar to Photoshop, no download, image editor. You can use whatever software you wish, we're just trying to be accessible for all! And, because the interface is essentially Photoshop, you will learn to use Photoshop without the cost.
The program we choose needs to be capable of:
Image Resizing
DPI / PPI Settings
Adjustments
Layers
Other free programs exist like Paint.NET. This program is a longtime personal favorite because it's a pretty easy learning curve - it's like MS Paint with extra features!
And, alternative programs to Adobe exist and are on the rise! Check out Affinity (paid), an award winning program that has equivalents to Photoshop, InDesign, and Illustrator. We're not sponsored by them, but appreciate the one-time payment to own the software over a subscription fee.
▼ [ Task 1 - Get to Photopea ]
Go to www.photopea.com
If you have a large banner blocking the screen, → click the "X" in the top right corner to remove it. → Photopea is now ready to be used!
If images do not appear in Photopea's canvas area, try a different web browser. Firefox has issues but Edge and Chrome should work.
5. How to Edit Artwork Photos
We want to show the best possible versions of our artworks online. We recommend using .RAW files whenever possible. Check your camera settings to see if you can shoot in .RAW. The files have more information packed in than .JPEG photos - the greater dynamic range (especially in dark areas) makes your art look better! Photo editing must be finished before Resizing / Optimizing. Otherwise, we'll be putting in all this effort only to give ourselves more work later!
When editing images of our art, we are trying to:
Represent digitally what our art looks like physically in real life as closely as reasonably possible, and
Present the best possible version of our work.
To achieve that, we must:
Adjust lighting to match real life conditions,
Adjust saturation to match real life, and
Remove obvious blemishes.
▼ [ Task 1 - Adjusting from .RAW File ]
If you have a .jpeg file, skip to Task 2.
Open Photopea. → Select "Open from Computer" → find your file on your computer and → click "Open".
The "RAW" photo editor with various Adjustments should appear. → Use the slider on each of the adjustment options to edit your photo.
In the next steps, we will show you our recommendations for photo adjustments (to be performed in order listed).
You are free to adjust other settings - we just find these are the most important adjustments to make to your photo.
steps continued below...
3. Exposure
1st Adjustment
Try to match your real life artwork in terms of colours and tone while preserving the details of your work.
Over Exposure remove the distinction of light tones from one another. In our example, the roof and sky become indistinct. Do not focus on getting your background to pure white.
4. Light Settings
2nd Adjustments
Contrast, Highlights, Shadows, Whites, Blacks
If your lighting levels when shooting were ideal, your may not need to adjust much at all.
Enhance the Dark, Mid, and Light tones of your image.
Experiment with the settings to learn what each does.
Be careful to not make your image too dark - preserve the details of your artwork.
Deepening the darks of an image usually is just enough to bring 'life' to the image.
5. Temperature
3rd Adjustment
If your lighting was skewed toward a warm or cool tone, this is where you can neutralize the tone.
Often temperature is a very subtle adjustment, so move in small increments.
To the left = add cool tones.
To the right = add warm tones.
6. Saturation
4th Adjustment
Use this slider to add more colour if your image feels dulled or washed out compared to your real life artwork.
Move in small increments of 5 on the scale. It can be difficult to tell when the colours are over saturated.
Over Saturation is when the colours are extra vivid and vibrant to a point of appearing unnatural.
Under Saturation is when colours are dulled or greyed out. Like the world looks generally a little more sad. The photography process tends to 'grey out' images a little so adding some saturation is normal.
7. Open Image
When you are satisfied with your edits, → Click "Open".
We always recommend saving step-by-step edit versions of your images as backups.
If you wish to save a copy of this image at the current edit, → Click "JPG" below the "Open" button.
This immediately downloads a copy of the image to your "Downloads" folder on your computer.
▼ [ Task 2 - Adjusting from .JPEG File ]
.JPEG files have less information to edit - dark tones may not have enough information left to become good mid tones. If this becomes an issue for you, shoot with better lighting conditions or shoot in .RAW.
Open Photopea. → Select "Open from Computer". → Find your file and click "Open".
Your file will open in Photopea's main editor.
On the top bar, → select "Window" → from the drop down, click "Adjustments". This will open the adjustments tab on the right side.
The checkmarks in the "Window" list show which settings are currently accessible in the right sidebar.
On the thin right sidebar, you will see a number of icons. → Click the Slider Icon (Adjustments) to open Adjustments.
On the thin right sidebar, you will see a number of icons. → Click the Slider Icon (Adjustments) to open Adjustments.
Each one of these icons in the large right sidebar adjust specific properties within the image. We will use a limited number of these to edit our photo.
steps continue below...
Note on Layers
Before we begin editing, here's some key information about how layers work:
Layers are located in the bottom right sidebar. If they aren't displayed there, you can add their to your setup through from the top bar "Window" menu (just like adding "Adjustments").
For every new adjustment we add, a new layer will be added.
This allows for non-destructive editing: the original image remains untouched as you continue to edit the image. Deleting an adjustment layer will simply remove the effect, not the image.
You can toggle layers on and off with the Eye Icon. This is located inside the Layers panel (bottom right sidebar) to the left side of any given layer. It's a great way to see the difference between your original image and your Adjustment effects.
3. Levels
Click "Levels".
You now will be able to adjust the midtone, darks, and brights in the image. Click and Drag the Squares under the diagram to adjust.
Auto: You can use the "Auto" feature to have the program automatically adjust the levels. This is a good start, but usually some editing after is still required.
Mid tone: Move it until the general colour pallet feels reflective of your real life artwork. The lights / dark will not yet match.
For the dark and light sliders, move them anywhere before the two hills in the diagram. The hills tend to be the point where the artwork is over or under exposed.
Dark Tone: Move it enough that the dark tones are deep but not so deep you lose important details.
Light Tone: Move it enough that it brightens the image with some life, but not so much that you lose distinction between bright tones or create hard unnatural contrast.
If needed, preview your changes against the original by toggling layers on or off in the bottom right sidebar → go to Layers and → to the left of the corresponding layer, → click the Eye Icon on/off.
When finished, click on the "Properties" tab to close it to see your artwork in full again.
4. Hue / Saturation
Click "Hue / Saturation".
If your colours are Under Saturated (washed / greyed out compared to the original), → move the "Saturation" slider until the colours are more vibrant and match your artwork.
Move in small increments of 5. Be careful not to Over Saturate (vibrant / vivid to the point of unnaturalness) your image.
When finished, click on the "Properties" tab to close it to see your artwork in full again.
5. Flatten Image
In the bottom right corner → hover over the layers box. → Right click on any layer and → select "Flatten Image".
This will compile all your changes into one layer.
▼ [ Task 3 - Cleaning Blemishes / Dust ]
On the left tool bar → Click the "Spot Healing Tool". Or tap "J" on your keyboard.
Increase the size of the brush / cursor until it is big enough to encapsulate the blemish you wish to remove.
Click on each blemish to remove it. You may need to wait for the program to load to process the removal.
▼ [ Task 4 - Crop Image, Export ]
On the left toolbar → Click the "Crop Tool (C)" tool. Or, tap "C" on your keyboard. → Click on the white boxes that appear on the outside of the image and → drag them into your desired crop.
2D Works Select inside of the frame as close to the edge of the frame as possible.
3D Works Select a composition that compliments the object.
On the top bar near "Content Aware" → click the Checkmark to complete the crop.
In the top left corner of Photopea, → click "File" → hover over "Export As" and → select JPG.
"Export As" is the equivalent of "Save As" in Photoshop.
In the new window, name the file.
We recommend nomenclature that will identify this as your original image.
Year_Medium_Artwork Title_Original
→ Move the quality slider to 100% and
→ Click "Save".
→ The image should now appear in your downloads folder on your computer.
6. Why Optimize Image Sizes?
The internet has different image requirements than printing in real life, so we should use the right tool for the right job. On the internet, images are compressed all the time to make them smaller and easier to load on webpages. There's a balance to be struck between image size, file size, and quality.* And, fine art submissions require you to resize your images to their specifications. So it's info we need to know regardless!
We want to optimize our image sizes because...
fast loading webpages,
art submission guidelines, and
discourage art theft with low quality images.
* For example, social media sites compress images (data) as small as possible because digital media storage is so expensive at the scale they operate at. You might have experienced this as "grainy" images when you upload to Instagram.
7. How to Identify Image Sizes
Using the final edit of your original artwork, we will make multiple smaller versions of the artwork for different uses around your website (ex. thumbnail, enlarged artwork). The exact sizes of images for you website will vary based on the layout you purchased / made. You will identify and make a list of the sizes to make for your website using the list below.
Never upload your original images / photographs online! Only scaled down versions - don't invite easy thieves!
▼ Standard Image Sizes (Google Sites)
[ 4 Column ] Square
256px longest side, 72 dpi[ 4 Column ] Portrait
256px shortest side 72 dpi[ 3 Column ] Square
400px longest side, 72 dpi[ 3 Column ] Portrait
400px shortest side, 72 dpi[ 2 Column ] Landscape
640px longest side, 72 dpi[ Enlarged Artwork Image ] or [ 1 Column ]
1024px longest side, 72 dpi
"Longest Side" means that the greater dimension (width or height) becomes this dimension. So, in a square, it doesn't matter what dimension is changed because both are the same. For a landscape rectangle, the width would be stretched from the original square to make it a landscape rectangle.
8. How to Optimize Image Sizes
Since Google Sites does not automatically compress (resize image files) like Instagram does when you upload an image, you have to do this manually before images are uploaded to your site. We need the smallest file size possible without sacrificing image quality.
To optimize our images for the web, we need to:
Shrink the Image Size (pixel x pixel)
Lower the Resolution (72 dpi)
Lower the Image Quality (70-90%)
Art Theft & Resolution: Print vs Web
To print a real life object, the resolution of the image must be high (minimum of 300 dpi). On the internet, you cannot see the visual difference on a screen over 72 dpi. Decreasing the resolution makes the file smaller which creates better site loading times and doesn't give thieves a free pass at your work.
▼ [ Task 1 - Optimize Image Size ]
Open the image you wish to resize in Photopea.
If you have followed our guide, the name should be formatted as:
Year_Medium_Artwork Name_OriginalIf you have multiple versions of the same file, likely your original is the largest file size.
Recall the image sizes you need to create from the last step. See example in next steps or in picture.
On the Top Bar → Click "Image" → Find and Click "Image Size" (Alt+Ctrl+I).
Do not open Canvas Size! These are two different settings.
You have to do this process manually one by one. Batch resizing options are available using Photoshop (tutorial is a work in progress).
3. Image Size
In the "Image Size" menu, locate and change either the width or height of the image. Which measurement you change depends on your image orientation. See example below. So long as the proportions are locked to one another (chain icon selected), if one measure changes, the other automatically does too.
Example: Pandora Dio Layout
The images are rectangle landscapes.
Therefore, the longest side is the width. The height is automatically calculated when the width box is deselected.
2 smaller files are made for each artwork:
(1) Preview Image: 640px width
(2) Artwork Preview: 1024px width
4. DPI
We are still operating in the "Image Size" menu.
Below the Height box, → select the "DPI" box. → Inside, change the number to 72. If the number is already 72, ignore this step. → Click "OK" when done.
Terminology Note
DPI and PPI are sometimes used interchangeably despite technically referring to different things. It's usually safe to assume they mean this setting unless you work in the commercial printing industry.
5-6. Export & Quality Adjustment
5. The image will now appear smaller in Photopea's workspace. This means our resizing was successful.
Now, it's time to export the image. Go to the top left corner and → click File. → From the list, find "Export As" and → Select "JPG".
6. In the "Save for Web" menu:
→ Rename the file. We recommend:
Year_Medium_Title_Size px
ex. 2021_Paint_Family Farm_640px→ Adjust the quality to between 70-90%.
Do enough quality loss that it's not noticeable to the naked eye, but not so much that there's a clear quality drop that makes your work look bad.
→ When done, click "Save".
The file will now appear in your Downloads folder. Move it to a safe location on your computer.
9. How to Make a Favicon & Logo
You MUST add a Favicon but a Logo is optional.
These two small pieces can take your website from any old Google Site to something that feels professional. How to upload these images is covered in Prep to Launch!
A Favicon (32 x 32 px) is the little icon for your website that appears: (1) to the left the open tab for your website and (2) on Google Search beside your website's name. By default, the Google Sites logo is the icon on for your website.
A Logo (260 x 50 px max size) is an optional element that appears in the top left corner of your website. It does not appear in web searches. It is left blank by default.
▼ [ Task 1 - Resizing to Make Favicon / Logo ]
0. Pick the image you will use for either your Favicon / Logo.
Favicon: Pick an element of an artwork that can be recognized when shrunk to the size of a thumbtack head. Ex. An eye, symbol, etc. Most companies use simplified logos in their design because they look great at any size.
Logo: A signature or logo works well. Keep in mind Google Sites' logo size is rectangular, so squares or vertical designs won't work.
Open the image you will make the favicon / logo from in Photopea.
One option is to choose a large original image so you can crop a very small area for the icon.
Now we will change the crop ratio and crop the image.
Go to the left side tool bar, → select Crop. → A new set of tools will appear along the top bar.
→ On the top bar toward the left side → Change to "Fixed Ratio".
→ Type the Width / Height dimensions to the asset you are creating:
Favicon: 32 width x 32 height (a 1:1 ratio).
Google Site Logo: 260 width x 50 height
(width can be less than listed, but no greater that listed dimension)
→ Adjust the box by clicking and dragging the white square corners as needed.
→ Crop the artwork when satisfied.
Go to Image Size. (Alt+Ctrl+I)
Do not select "Canvas Size"! This is a different setting.
Adjust the one measurement of size and the DPI:
Favicon: 32px height, 72dpi.
Google Site Logo: 40px height, 72dpi.
By changing only one measurement, the "Lock Proportion" setting will automatically change the other measurement (width) to the correct length.
→ when finished, Click "OK".
Export the image. Go to the top left corner and → click File. → From the list, find "Export As" and → Select "JPG".
Then, give the file a descriptive name based on its contents.
We recommend:
site favicon_artwork name
site logo_artwork name
→ Set the Quality to 100%. → Click "Save" when finished. → The file will appear in your Downloads folder on your computer.
The favicon / logo inside of the "Save for Web" preview window is the scale that your asset will actually be seen at. If it doesn't look good in the preview window, consider re-doing this process with a different image.
10. Anti-AI: Nightshade / Glaze
One of the few options artists have to protect their work from becoming part of AI training data sets is using Glaze and Nightshade. It's questionable how useful these tools are, so check out the drop down menus to see if it's a good fit for you.
NEW! Sept 2024. WebGlaze is an invite only version of Glaze you can use online. CaraGlaze exists within the Cara app. You don't need a powerful computer to use these.
These programs require a powerful computer...
Akin to a gaming / heavy graphic design / video setup
NVidia GPU (one of these)
GPU must have more than 3.6G of GPU memory
... which might not be something you have / can afford.
If you're really interested in these tools but don't have access to the right equipment, see if your local artist run center, university / college, or public library can help. They can likely install this as a program on their computers for public use.
Jackie Droujko has a great video breakdown of these tools and the current landscape for artists. Complete with dramatic Youtube cover image.
What is Glaze & Nightshade?
Similar to treating an oil painting with linseed oil when it's done, Glaze and Nightshade are final step processes that protect your art from AI web crawlers.
Glaze and Nightshade are free programs developed by the University of Chicago that allow users to protect their works from AI Art. Ideally, artists should use BOTH - Glaze, then Nightshade their works. Glaze works against style mimicry while Nightshade poisons AI training datasets. Glaze works on the individual, but Nightshade needs a large amount of people to poison the data set. You can learn about and get Glaze here and Nightshade here.
Do these tools actually work?
Whether or not these tools are effective is hotly debated. AI training is not just a bot looking at the image and identifying what's in it, it's also humans correctly labeling what's in the image (and more). AI's technological advancement is moving so fast that it's hard for tools against it to keep up.
Nearly all social media platforms have a clause in their Terms of Service that allow the images you upload to their site to become part of data training sets - your images are (not if) being used with your implicit permission to train AI. The only one that does not is Cara - a startup app for artists to share their work, old picture only Instagram style.
Can I copyright my style of art?
Your style can't be copyrighted, only the works you actually produce. This is the legal grey area that AI art currently exists in. Do the AI companies owe royalties to artists for using their artwork in datasets or is AI simply "taking inspiration" like a human would but on a large scale? The courts are still deciding.
Who owns the copyrights over AI art?
Because AI art is made by a machine, not a person, all works made by AI are in the public domain. Problematically, if someone mimicked your style through AI, they could sell the works the AI produces. In effect, they steal your work without actually stealing your work at all. We'll talk more about if that's actually a problem in a bit.
Here's a few references for big moves happening with AI right now:
Suing over art use without consent (Andersen v. Stability AI et al.)
General article about the state of AI & the Law
What about my art in AI training data sets?
At this stage, AI data sets for large companies like Midjourney or DALL-E are already trained and are not taking new images. Thus, if your work was already used for training purposes, there is nothing you can do about it.
If you make art that (1) mimics another artist's style or (2) is abstract art that is not distinctive, you don't have to fear AI.
We mean the following statement in the nicest, neutral analytic way possible: your art style (1) has already been copied or is (2) not what people typically use AI to generate.
For example,
if you make paintings in the style of the Group of Seven but using dilapidated, industrial settings instead, chances are someone could prompt "a warehouse factory in the style of Tom Thompson" and make something close to your style.
if you make large scale, minimalist, colourful abstract paintings that have aesthetic relations to the Russian Futurists, people likely aren't AI prompting that style. AI is typically favoured for illustrative, photographic, and graphic design purposes with representational subjects and objects.
However, if you are posting new work in a style never seen before, it may be worth using Anti AI tools. AI can't create new visual styles - it mimics what is has been trained on. So, if you 'poison' your artwork with Anti AI tools, this should make it harder for new startups training their generative AIs.
Is AI art a threat to me?
Realistically, the biggest threats to your sales are:
Sale of style mimics of your artwork style (ex. digital products, prints),
Choosing AI generation over hiring an artist to make assets, and
No royalties from the use of style mimics.
Those threats are high risk if you are:
An artist with an extremely distinct and unique style,
Selling digital prints of your artwork as a large source of income, or
An artist catering to the tastes of clients (ex. pet portraits, graphic design trends, etc.)
So for example, digital artists who sell prints or pet portrait artists have far more risk than traditional, physical object artists who sell originals of their works. But, a large part of selling even those kinds of artworks is the relationship the artist builds with the client. People who weren't willing to pay an artist in the first place will continue to not pay, but those who want the connection will.
There will always be a certain amount of work and finesse that must be completed by humans that AI can't replace. The question is how much work will be left once AI is heavily integrated into our societal workflow.
What should I do about AI?
Calculate the actual risk of style mimicry to your income.
Art is not a monolith - artists live in very different industries with very different problems (i.e. Commercial Illustrator vs Fine Art Painter).
Could someone replace you fully with AI? Partially? How and why would they?
Do you have a very unique style that is the essence of your art branding? The reason people buy from you?
Do you make a living off originals or digital prints? AI can't make up a style that doesn't already exist and cannot currently paint literal brushstrokes.
Is your work all about the in person experience? AI can't replace experience, just aesthetics.
Would digital viewing satisfy your art audience instead? AI might then be a threat.
Ideal: Glaze and Nightshade your artworks.
Ideally you should use both, but at the minimum use Glaze as it will help protect against style mimicry directly.
Minimum: Optimize Image Sizes when posting to the internet.
If you can't use Anti AI or it isn't worth it, the minimum is to make sure quality images of your art aren't floating around for thieves. The traditional way to steal is simply claiming your art as theirs. Don't make it easy! See Step 8 in this guide.
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